The Glory of Aged Rioja

By Dan Rhodes

I recently had the good fortune to snag an invite to a very special library tasting event from Rioja’s renowned CVNE winery. Guest speaker Jesus de Madrazo Mateo of CVNE led us all down a glorious path of historical delights. This vinous extravaganza focused on a treasure trove of many previously unreleased Gran Reserva wines from the CVNE Imperial and Vina Real portfolios.

Jesus de Madrazo Mateo of CVNE

All were enthralled at the quality brought to bear and it prompted many to comment on just how undervalued aged Rioja can be. Given the unprecedented surge in en primeur pricing from Bordeaux for the 2009 and 2010 vintages, the value-conscious wine shopper/collector should definitely be looking towards Rioja as an alternative.

We tasted any number of great wines but the following stood out to this palate:

CVNE 1999 Imperial Gran Reserva (From magnum)

Bordeaux-like in the mouth. Magnificent juxtaposition of sweet black cherry, blackberry and crème de cassis fruit. A real treat. Refined and elegant. First Growth quality at a fraction of the cost.

CVNE 1999 Vina Real Gran Reserva

Jesus de Madrazo Mateo of CVNE

More Rhône-like ---10% Grenache which definitely influences the flavor profile. Sweeter, jammier red fruits than the above. Jesus talked about 2 flavor profiles for the CVNE wines. One emphasizes ripe fruits (blueberries and cassis) while the other emphasizes terroir (fennel and herbs). This is definitely in the second camp. Hints of clove and herbs de Provence.

CVNE 1988Vina Real Gran Reserva

Earthy black fruit flavors, flambéed fruits. Hints of truffles, sous bois, forest berries, herbs and leaves. Delightful nuance of graham cracker and black peppercorn throughout. Extraordinary complexity. Showcases the Burgundian side of Rioja.

CVNE 1976 Imperial Gran Reserva

Very warm, soft fruit. Flambéed, baked cherry. Subtle hints of clove and spice. Very sensual wine. Reminds of very well-done and properly aged Bordeaux.

CVNE 1973 Vina Real Gran Reserva

Enticing nose of sweet tobacco, pipe tobacco. Gorgeous cherry/black cherry fruit with hints of coriander, spice box, clove and nutmeg. Very Burgundian again. Meditative finish of nougat, caramel and toffee is the pièce de resistance.

The well-rounded and astute collector would do well to reserve a small section in his or her cellar for wines such as these from one of the world’s greatest red wine regions: Rioja.

A few of our retail CVNE selections:
CVNE Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 2001 / CVNE Cune Gran Reserva 2005 / CVNE Cune Imperial Reserva 2005