By: Dan Rhodes
As many wine collectors and aficionados already know, the
2011 vintage has been “declared” in Portugal by many, if not most, of this
Iberian nation’s top houses including Fonseca, Taylor Fladgate, Croft and Quinta
do Noval. In conjunction with the celebration and promotion of this spectacular
Port scenario, I was able to attend a special “sneak –preview” tasting recently
in Los Angeles at the Beverly Hills Hotel.
This gala event, co-sponsored by the Fladgate Partnership
and Quinta do Noval in conjunction with Kobrand and Young’s Market, was a tour de force tasting of the
“best-of-the-best” and afforded me the opportunity to not only confirm all of
the hype associated with this superlative harvest but also take a small trip
down memory lane and explore any number of recent releases and library
selections from these renowned estates.
The scene was literally a “who’s-who” of the southern
California wine world and trade with well-known critics in attendance tasting alongside representatives and buyers
from many of the Southland’s most prestigious retail shops, restaurants and
hotels. Several luminaries from the world of Port were in attendance including
David Guimaraens, winemaker for the venerable house of Fonseca.
For Port lovers, the 2011 vintage is both magical and
historical. The wines are rich, concentrated and full-bodied with long-lived
potential. Yet they are incredibly focused and complex with balanced components
capable of providing a refined and elegant port experience for years to come.
To use an old expression, they are the quintessential “iron fist in the velvet glove”
combining power and finesse.
Most retailers should be offering these high-scoring gems on
a pre-arrival basis and I would urge all wine collectors who are serious about
a compiling a well-rounded cellar to look into procuring an assorted case or
two for future consumption. And while you’re at it, don’t neglect purchasing
Ports at auction. They are usually available for a very reasonable bid and
offer the sophisticated and wise collector the opportunity to procure one of
the wine-auction world’s most under-valued and enjoyable treasures.
Here are some of my notes and highlights from this
“once-in-a-lifetime” event:
2011
As described by Adrian Bridge (Fladgate Partnership) and
Christian Seely (Quinta do Noval), the 2011 harvest was preceded by a cold, wet
winter providing ground water reserves which allowed a balanced ripening of the
grapes during the hot, dry summer. This textbook viticultural year, which
culminated in perfect picking conditions at harvest time, produced wines which
combine wonderful purity and complexity of aroma and flavor underpinned by
firm, well-integrated tannins.
Croft
This could, quite possibly, be the best vintage Croft ever!
It’s just that good! Soft red and black fruits for the palate redolent of
cherry/black cherry with hints of espresso and coffee bean, the 2011 Croft is
even-keeled and pleasant with well-integrated components and strong depth of
flavor.
Fonseca
Powerful cherry/black cherry fruit for the palate is in
keeping with the Fonseca style. Generous streams of plum and loganberry provide
additional complexity in conjunction with sublime nuances of red licorice,
allspice, coriander and white chocolate. This very sexy port should not to be
missed by any self-respecting Port aficionado.
Quinta do Noval
The 2011 Quinta do Noval possesses a bright cherry/berry,
maraschino cherry identity for both nose and palate along with an exotic,
tropical red fruit, passion fruit character which is most unusual. Hints of
brown spice and graham cracker round out the flavor profile for this enjoyable
gem which is actually drinking quite well right now.
Quinta do Noval
Nacional
This is a very serious effort. Layered, vinous and inordinately
complex, the wine displays, even at this embryonic stage, all the
characteristics of a classic. Deep, dark flavors of black cherry, plum and
blackberry display sundry nuance of fig, anisette and bitter chocolate. It is,
using the Bordeaux analogy, a wine of First Growth quality. Think Pauillac/Château Latour.
Quinta da Romaneiro
This is a lighter-styled, fairly forward production that is
showing precociously well. Mixed red and black fruits abound nuanced nicely
with hints of spice, clove and lavender. This should be available in the market
place for a very reasonable price.
Taylor Fladgate
The 2011 Taylor Fladgate is an instant classic! It
approaches perfection! Full-on, creamy vectors of dark cherry, blackberry,
chocolate cherry fruit assault the palate in conjunction with scintillating
hints of toffee, milk chocolate and candied truffles. As if that weren’t enough
there are even more subtle nuances of fennel, anisette, espresso and black
licorice that provide additional complexity to this tour de force. A must buy!
Taylor Fladgate
Vargellas
In terms of quality, the Taylor Fladgate’s Vargellas is sort
of a miniature version of the above-noted wine. It combines both a red and
black fruit identity. Very even-keeled with a plush pleasing texture, the wine
brings a mélange of red cherry, red raspberry and bright plum fruits to bear in
conjunction with subtle hints of coriander, red licorice, nutmeg and allspice.
Library Selections
and other Current Releases
Where does one start? While the 2011 releases were
definitely the stars of the show, each participating estate provided additional
bottlings representing library stock or other current release bottlings. Too
many wines and so many highlights but here are a few faves that really caught
my eye. Many of these are still available in the market.
Croft 2009
sweet red raspberry, pomegranate and cherry
compote fruit, drinks well now.
Fonseca 2009
Superb wine that still needs time. Powerful
blackberry, black cherry fruit abound with
hints of chocolate fudge brownie,
allspice and graham cracker. Complexity galore!
Fonseca 2007
Another larger than life effort from
Fonseca, it’s a bit softer than the 2009 with a more velvety, plush texture.
Creamy with nice swirls of red raspberry, boysenberry and crème de cassis
fruit.
Quinta do Noval 2007
On the whole, the 2007 vintage
showed very well at this event and here’s another example. Drinking quite well,
the wine showcased such flambéed fruits as plum and cherry in conjunction with
pleasing streams of warm brown spices, nutmeg and pomegranate.
Taylor Fladgate 2007
Ripe blueberry/blackberry fruit,
this powerful Port is classic Taylor Fladgate with its nuanced mélange of nutmeg, cardamom, coriander, candied cherry,
lavender and herbs de Provence. Look for this in the market place! It’s worth
the effort!
Quinta da Romaneira 2004
Very successful for the vintage.
Robust, harder-styled texture that combines any number of black fruit flavors.
Perfect for that late night bit of chocolate while watching TV.
Fonseca 2003
Very ripe, very 2003! Very seductive
texture that unites luxurious flavors of blackberry, plum, loganberry and black
cherry along with regal swirls of brown sugar, cinnamon and cocoa. Drinking
wonderfully right now!
Quinta do Noval 2003
Another very ripe 2003 that’s quite
appealing in the moment, the wine combines seductive dollops of ripe plum and
sweet cherry fruit with hints of baker’s/bitter chocolate. Wonderful
juxtaposition of flavor and texture that’s quite attractive.
Quinta do Noval Nacional 2003
Just has that little bit
of extra flavor complexity and dimension for which Nacional is known. This is a
sublime effort, one of the top wines of the show and while purists may perhaps find
the fruit a bit too ripe, there’s no denying the attraction of its layered red
and black fruit identity which highlights plum, black cherry and wild berry
fruit along with pleasing hints of truffles and terroir.
Taylor Fladgate 2003
Filled to the brim with ripe fruit richness, the 2003 Taylor Fladgate
still retains a nice backbone of well-honed acidity which functions as the
spine of this fruit cornucopia that combines red fruits galore in conjunction
with hints of brown sugar, maple and cinnamon. The wine’s finish is seemingly endless
which bodes well for additional cellaring. This deceivingly complex effort
defined one of the show’s top wines and, while drinking well now, it has a nice
long life ahead of it for those so inclined.
