by Dan Rhodes
In show business terms, there’s nothing worse than having to
come on stage to follow a very successful and popular act. Comparisons are
inevitable, expectations are high and the crowd is restless. Such was the
uphill task faced recently at the Hyatt Regency in Los Angeles by the annual
traveling Bordeaux road show known as the Union
des Grands Crus. Everyone queued with great anticipation and commenced to
explore Millésime 2010 wondering just how it would compare
to the wildly popular 2009 vintage, deemed by the reigning Bordeaux emperor
Robert M. Parker to be, “the greatest Bordeaux vintage ever.”
The answer, in a nutshell, is “quite favorably.” For sure,
each of these superb vintages will have their proponents within each camp
arguing in favor of their preference but the reality, at the end of the day,
speaks to a comparison of apples and oranges. If you like, dare I use the word,
hedonistic fruit opulence than you
will prefer the 2009 vintage and its juxtaposition of myriad ripe fruits,
rounded tannins and ripe acidities. If, on the other hand, you prefer a more
linear, classically configured wine, with substantial structure and tannic
backbone, than 2010 is for you.
Notwithstanding the record-setting en primeur pricing both of these affairs bring to the table, the
wise Bordeaux collector would do well to purchase a representative sampling
from each of these stellar harvests as they are both monumental, historic
vintages that speak to the power of diversity. Both vintages have a long life
ahead of them and should age splendidly albeit for different reasons and with a
different end-result flavor profile. The conscientious collector should take a
look at 2010 on a case-by-case (aka Château
by Château) basis
to determine tannin tolerance, flavor predilection and style preference knowing
full-well that, for the most part, these are being purchased for long-term
cellaring and could, very well, be enjoyed ultimately by children or
grandchildren.
It’s always a challenge to capture a tasting note for every
single wine represented at this monumental event but here are some of my
highlights with my scores in parentheses.
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN
Haut Bailly --- Classic, structured wine. (94-96)
La Louviere --- Value achiever. Possibly best ever
from here. (92-94)
Malartic Lagraviere --- Sophisticated minerality.
(92-94)
Olivier --- Value achiever. Best from here in years.
(91-93)
Pape Clement --- One of the top wines of the show.
(98 – 100)
Smith Haut Lafitte --- Superb follow-up to their
spectacular 2009. (96-98)
ST. EMILION
Canon --- Old school. Purist’s delight. (94-96)
Canon la Gaffeliere --- Another outstanding effort
from Neipperg. (96-98)
Dassault --- Value achiever. Possibly best ever from
here. (93-95)
Figeac --- Rien
ne change. (94-96)
Clos Fourtet --- One of the top wines of the show.
Off the charts! (98-100)
Pavie Macquin --- Robust wine. Tremendous black fruit
presence. (94-96)
Troplong Mondot --- Another regal effort from
Christine Valette. (98-100)
POMEROL
Clinet --- Virtually flawless. (98-100)
Gazin --- Value achiever. Best wine ever from Gazin.
(94-96+)
La Conseillante --- A more terroir-driven version of
Clinet. (97-99)
La Pointe --- Value achiever. Best ever from here.
(92-94)
HAUT-MÉDOC
Beaumont --- Bordeaux best-buy. (90-92)
La Tour Carnet --- Renaissance continues under
Magrez. (90-92)
La Tour de By --- Wines continue to improve here.
Value achiever. (90-92)
MARGAUX
Malescot St. Exupery --- Powerful wine. Atypical
Margaux but captures the vintage identity. (95-97)
Marquis de Terme --- Value achiever. Best ever from
here. (90-92)
Prieure –Lichine --- Best in a long time. (92-94)
Rauzan-Segla --- Prefer their 2010 to 2009. (93-95)
Siran --- Value achiever. Wine much more polished and
sophisticated than past. (90-92)
ST. JULIEN
Beychevelle --- Taking things to the next level now.
(93-95)
Branaire-Ducru --- Enormous concentration. The
thinking man/woman’s St. Julien. (94-96)
Leoville Barton --- Magnificent! One of the show’s
top wines. (96-98)
Leoville Poyferré --- Now rivals Las Cases. (95-97)
Talbot --- Value achiever. Old school wine. (90-92)
PAUILLAC
Croizet- Bages --- Best ever from here. Value
achiever. (92-94)
d’Armailhac --- Mini-Mouton (91-93)
Grand Puy Ducasse --- Finally lives up to 4th
Growth status. (90-92)
Lynch Bages --- Classic Lynch. (95-97)
Lynch Moussas – Best ever from here. Value achiever.
(90-92)
Pichon Baron --- Stunning! One of the top wines of
the show. (96-98)
Pichon Lalande --- Powerful, regally feminine.
(94-96)
ST. ESTEPHE
Lafon Rochet --- Value achiever. Classic St. Estephe.
(90-92)
SAUTERNES
Guiraud --- Leaner in style, yet seductive. (92-94)
La Tour Blanche --- Opulent, hedonistic wine. (92-94)
Doisy-Daëne
--- One of the better efforts from this estate. (91-93)
